Skip to content

No time for blogs Dr. Jones

Christmas has come and gone in the blink of an eye, and I just realised I had forgotten all about you, my dear readers. Well, you are all eminently forgettable so it’s not really my fault – you should strive to be more interesting.  Since January is going to be another complete write-off time-wise I thought I would poop out a quick brain-dump for you to re-digest through your eye holes.

I have previously spoken about building a dice tower from scraps I had lying around. Recently, for fun, I built the “Ultimate Dice Tower” (not to be mistaken for the less appealing Ultimate Dice Tower 2) from Fat Dragon Games. I got this on sale from Drive-Thru RPG for about US$4 and it is truly awesome.

Fat Dragon games produce a range of great looking 3D terrain for RPG gamers which you print, cut and assemble yourself into small inter-locking units. These look a lot like real work, a major investment in time, and a potential life-long debilitating obsessive-compulsive behaviour. Let’s face it, you can never have enough dungeons, and once I completed one set, I can see myself wanting 2, 3 or prehaps a million copies of some sections.  I don’t think I could stop until I had enough to fill a football field. Before committing the entirety of my free time and spare cash for the rest of my life, I wanted to try out something small, with a definite end-point. So, I grudgingly forked out my precious copper pieces, and downloaded the printable PDF.

The first surprise in the downloaded .zip file is that it actually contains 19 PDF files:

  • 14 one-page documents to print and cut out to make the pieces of the dice tower.
  • an excellent twenty-six page “beginners Guide to Card Modelling” which details how to cut, score, and glue the correct way.
  • a nineteen page document on how to specifically build this dice tower, which is comprised mostly of photographs with captions.
  • 3 optional “charts” that can be inserted into the lower part of the dice tower (where the dice come to rest). One is a “hit-chart” so you can randomise what part of the body a blow lands on. Another is a “random dungeon generator” for building random maps on-the-fly. The 3rd is blank that you may create your own charts.

Some of the PDFs include layers so you can choose to print either “stone” or “grass” areas for some sections of the tower. As far as I can tell you need the Adobe PDF Reader to do this, as the 3rd party PDF viewer I was using did not support this feature. This is not a problem – I have both, but the 3rd party one is my default due to ongoing security concerns with Adobe software.

Areas of the dice tower which will not be visible in the final assembled unit are white (no rock,grass or brick pattern printed on them). This servers 2 purposes – to reassure you you are building the model correctly, but also to save on printer ink.  Nice!

The guide suggested using 110lb card stock for printing the tower pieces out. For the “rest of the world” who use the correct (metric) system this is about 150gsm (grams/square metre). I ended up going with some slightly heavier (200gsm) card that I got at Officeworks, because I knew from previous experience that my printer had no issues printing on it, and I already had nearly 100 sheets sitting on my desk.  This brings me to a couple of small tips for us “foreigners”:

  1. The model is designed with US Letter size paper in mind.  Since this is rare and exotic I just used A4, and
  2. Because A4 is a slightly different aspect ratio to Letter you must ensure that you turn “stretch to fit” OFF (or in some versions set “Page Scaling” to NONE) when printing, or your parts are not going to fit together.

You may find the printing of some lines gets cut off on the very edge of one or two pages, but only on the gluing tabs, which is not a problem – just cut where you think the lines should go :-).

Apart from these small adjustments, I followed the instructions to the letter, and it all went smoothly. About 5 or 6 hours (spread over 3 nights) I had a beautiful looking dice tower.  I am no expert at this paper modelling caper, and I am quite sure that a more expert user could manage this in less time, and probably get a marginally better finished product.

The only thing I changed was gluing a second copy of the base to the bottom of the model after it was finished for a little more structural strength (and it also covers up some of the gluing tabs, and hence makes the underside prettier – no once can accuse me of not being anal).

So, was it worth the 4 bucks + $1.80 worth of cardboard and some cheap generic 3rd-party printer ink? Hell yes.  It’s so impressive I want to start building them as presents for all my friends and family! What my octogenarian mother would do with an awesome medieval looking dice tower I have no freaking idea, but she’s getting one OK! Suck it!

So, if I never publish anything on this blog ever again, blame the arseholes at Fat Dragon Games. Next time they should make products that suck, like the the Ultimate Dice Tower 2.

Here is the finished product:

DSCN2709* Disclaimer: I am not receiving any money/goods/services/sexual favours from this blog either directly or indirectly (through affiliate programs etc.). I have no conflicts of interest, and don’t know anybody who has ever worked at Fat Dragon Games, Drive Through RPG, Officeworks or any other entity mentioned in any of my gaming posts, so screw you Mr. Smarty Pants who think I am a shill for Big RPG. I am doing this for +1 karma.

GFC DnD Part 5.75 – Battle of the Beginner Boxes

UPDATE: The D&D Next/5th Edition starter set is out now, and after you have read this article, you can get a comparison here.

Time-out. Since I now have a number of “beginner” sets for D&D Essentials and Pathfinder RPG, I thought I would take some time to look at them and the similarities/differences between them. I know this is super sexy, but please try to remain within your pants for the duration of this article. Your cooperation is appreciated (and mandatory).

These boxes are designed for newly minted players and game/dungeon masters. If you have just this instant been conjured, naked and caked in filth from some horrific monster-infested demonic realm, such as Tasmania, and know nothing of this role playing caper, this is where you begin. All these sets contain simplified versions of the rules – not “different” rules, but stripped of much of the complicated and unnecessary stuff. The number of options have been whittled away, with fewer races, classes, spells, weapons, abilities etc. to stop these things overwhelming the newbies. In all cases, that which you learn in these sets will not need to be “unlearned” if you graduate to the full D&D 4th Edition, or Pathfinder RPG, rather those games will be augmented with additional “stuff”.

If you are an experienced GM or Player, I could only recommend these products if you are planning to indoctrinate a new brood of novitiates. There is nothing new nor exciting here for you; save your dough.

  D&D Starter Set
D&D Dungeon Master’s Kit Pathfinder Beginner Box (PFBB)
RRP/SRP US$19.99 US$39.99 US$34.99 (and/or download as PDF: US$9.99)
Link to publishers page D&D Starters Set D&D Dungeon Master’s Kit Paizo Beginner’s Box
Player book 32-page book (30 pages of which are the solo adventure) None 64-page Hero’s Handbook (includes solo adventure Skeleton Kings Crypt).
DM Book 64-page DM’s book. 272-page book of rules and advice. 96-page Game Master’s Guide.
Maps 1 Double-sided mat 22″x34″  – one side dungeon, the other wilderness. Easier to crumple than the PFBB map, and wet erase and permanent markers are harder to remove (although alcohol works great for cleaning) 2 double-sided battle maps measuring 21″ x 30″ each. Easier to crumple than the PFBB map, and wet erase and permanent markers are harder to remove (although alcohol works great for cleaning) 1 Double-sided mat 24″x30″- durable plastic laminated cardboard, much thicker than the AD&D boxes. One side is dungeon, the other brown background with a 1″ grid. Wet and Dry erase markers can be used on the map.
Dice provided Set of 6 black dice

  • 1 x d4
  • 1 x d6
  • 1 x d8
  • 1 x d10 (1-10)
  • 1 x d12
  • 1 x d20

7 dice is more usual. Missing a d10 numbered 00-90 used in conjunction with the included d10 to roll a %  (1-100).

None. Set of 7 red dice

  • 1 x d4
  • 1 x d6
  • 1 x d8
  • 2 x d10 (one numbered 0-9 and one numbered 00-90)
  • 1 x d12
  • 1 x d20
Player/Hero tokens/pawns 12 Hero tokens (one side normal, the other side has the same hero “bloodied”). 5 “Action point” tokens 12 Hero tokens (one side normal, the other side has the same hero “bloodied”). 6 “Action point” tokens 28 – Includes Human, Elf and Dwarf versions of Cleric, Fighter, Rougue and wizard (male and female each) plus the 4 pre-generated heroes).
Monster tokens/miniatires 36 one-inch and 3 two-inch monster tokens (with different monsters on each side). 86 one-inch and 4 two-inch monster tokens (one side “normal”, the other “bloodied”). 56 one-inch wide monsters and 3 two-inch monsters.
Adventures included 1 Solo, 1 group (The Twisting Halls broken into 7 encounters) Two 32-page adventure books: Reavers of Harkenwold, parts 1 & 2.
1 Solo (Skeleton Kings Crypt), 1 group (Black Fang’s Dungeon, broken into 10 map sections)
Addition adventures (free online from publishers’ web site)  Can’t see anything specific…
  • Beginner Box GM Kit – 1 adventure, plus new monsters, magical weapons, armour and other treasures. Tips on converting full Pathfinder RPG modules to the PFBB
  • Beginner Box Bash Demos – Four mini-adventures. Sequels to Black Fang’s Dungeon.
Additional free online resources
Other Items in box
  • Code to download the “Witchlight Fens” adventure for free.
  • Power Cards: reference for Powers, Abilities, Spells, Magic Items, etc.
  • Flier advertising the D&D Essentials range (i.e. what to buy next)
  • DM Screen (4 panels fold-out). Thinner cardboard than the DM screens sold separately.
  • Flier advertising the D&D Essentials range (i.e. what to buy next)
  • “Read this first” one page introduction.
  • Approx. 20 bases for pawns.
Character Sheets 4 blank None 4 blank + 4 pre-generated
Character levels 1st to 2nd 1st to 30th 1st to 5th
# of players 1 to 5 Not specified, however the included adventure is best with 5-6 players + 1 DM. 2-5
Other notes/observations May be out of stock at the time of writing, however second printing is expected soon, and might include some of the errata
ISBN ISBN 13: 9780786956296
ISBN 10: 0786956291
ISBN 13: 9780786956302
ISBN 10: 0786956305
ISBN 13: 9781601253729
ISBN 10: 1601253729
Bar-code 9 780786 956296 9 780786 956302 9 781601 253729
Summary: Pros
  • Quite a long solo adventure.
  • Great quality printing books and tokens.
  • Duplicate monster tokens are numbered so you can distinguish between them in battle.
  • Completely compatible with full 4th Edition rules.
  • Seamlessly follows from the Starter Set
  • Can take characters all the way to level 30
  • Nice variety of tokens, and duplicate monsters are numbered so you can distinguish between them.
  • Completely compatible with full 4th Edition rules.
  • The included Ravenwold adventures are relatively long, and have been getting very good reviews (haven’t played them yet myself).
  • Hardiest book covers and map – thick card-stock. As an indication, this box weighs more than eitther of the other two boxes.
  • Pre-generated characters contain enough biographical data/back-story to help beginning players.
  • Really beautiful production and art. Everything in this box looks and feels of the highest quality.
  • Paizo provide lots of additional resources online, and there is a lively discussion boards for this product if you have questions.
Summary: Cons
  • Only 6 dice. Weird, but not fatal.
  • Only allows players to advance to level 2. You will quickly need to purchase further gear.
  • Books only have paper covers – not card-stock.
  • Flimsy feeling mat
  • Not a first purchase: Requires additional material(Starter Set and/or Rules compendium and/or Heroes of the Fallen Lands and/or Heroes of the Forgotten kingdoms).
  • Flimsy feeling mat
  • Solo adventure is relatively short.
  • More expensive than the other box sets.

For the purposes of this review, I am not considering anything that is neither in the box, or available for free from the publishers’ web site. Both Paizo (Pathfinder) and Wizards of the Coast (D&D) have developed thriving communities of players, DMs and other weirdos, who make available all sorts of additionata (to use a Garth Merenghi word). Documenting all this could be a lifes’ work, so I won’t. YOLO!

At the end of the day my personal preference of the 3 boxes is the Pathfinder Beginner box. It’s more expensive, but the quality of the paper and printing is awesome, and it should last you longer (without having to purchase additional material) than the D&D Starter Set. I also prefer the stand-up paper miniatures of the PFBB to the tokens of D&D, but I acknowledge that this is a lifestyle choice, and your religion may have something to say about which is virtuous, and which is a vile perversion of nature. The Beginner Box also comes with more the free adventure downloads from Paizo. Many of the PFBB monster tokens are not used in the included adventure, and so are new material for you to design your own adventures around.  The blank side of the map will also help you here – there’s a lot of free space to draw maps on!

Another thing to keep in mind is that the WotC* folk who publish the D&D sets do have additional tools online, however these are not free: you must pay a monthly subscription. Since this column is aimed at people who, like me, don’t know their mithril chain-mail from a dead goblins arse, paying for a monthly subscription is probably not ideal.

One more thing worth pointing out is that there is a free version of the Hero Lab character creation software for the Beginner Box (most other RPGs supported by this software cost money). I like it, even though it’s a Windows/Mac/iPod program. The Windows version runs OK on Linux using Wine (and I assume PlayOnLinux/Crossover). Definitely worth looking at when it’s time to create your own characters. If you decide on D&D over the PFBB, it may even be worth your money to buy this.

Cheerio! You Smell!

* WotC = Wizards of the Coast (publishers of Dungeons and Dragons)

UPDATE: The D&D Next/5th Edition starter set is out now, and after you have read this article, you can get a comparison here.

GFC D&D – Getting kids into Dungeons & Dragons cheap Part 5 – Solo Adventure (cont)

First some good news: Wizards Of The Coast have made my preferred version of Basic D&D – the 1983 Basic rulebooks A.K.A Mentzer, A.K.A BECMI – available for online purchase ($5 each for the Player and DM books) as a downloadable PDF over at D&D Classics, RPG Now, Drive-Thru RPG possibly other places. Previously they only had the 1981 – A.K.A. Moldvay A.K.A. B/X – version.

(BTW: does any-one know how these 3 web sites are linked? They seem to share their back-end infrastructure. Weird)

More good news: I scored a free copy of the D&D Essentials “Dungeon Masters Kit“. It’s gone into the cupboard for now, but it looks very cool and I’m looking forward to playing this. It contains:

rules and advice to help Dungeon Masters run games for adventurers of levels 1–30. It also includes useful DM tools such as a Dungeon Master’s screen (with tables and rules printed on the inside), die-cut terrain tiles and monster tokens, and fold-out battle maps.

I got because an online store mistakenly shipped it to me (I ordered something else). When I rang them they told me to keep it, and they sent me the correct item!  So, they are somewhat incompetent but I guess their heart is in the right place. I won’t mention their name because I’ve had other problems with them on other orders too – don’t really want to endorse them 🙂

And some bad news. I am probably the last person to hear that the my favourite author of all time, Jack Vance, has died. I only mention it here because the magic system used in D&D (where magic users forget spells once cast, and have to re-learn them), was “inspired” by Vance’s Dying Earth novels.  I highly recommend reading every word the man ever wrote, and The Dying Earth is a pretty good place to start. Farewell Jack, and say “Hi” to E. Gary Gygax and Dave Arneson for me.

Then even more good news: I found a very cheap place to get polyhedral dice sets. For between AU$4.00 and AU$5.40 (and that price INCLUDES shipping to Australia) you can pick up a set of 7 polyhedral dice in an assortment of colours. The price also includes a dice bag (with a choice of 3 colours).  SUPER Bargain. I have ordered stuff from them twice now, and so far had no problems (but don’t expect overnight delivery, OK). You can see their eBay store here. Again, I have no affiliation with these guys, and at that price they couldn’t afford to give me a kick-back 🙂 I also have no idea how long they will continue to sell this stuff!

Now, on with the show…

Bargle has fled.

Our brave fighter (now named “Coocoo” apparently) has made it back to town and his wounds have healed.  The next thing that happens is that he visits the local smithy and gets some better armour (British/Australian spelling only, please), and then learns a little more about the game mechanics of slaughtering monsters.

Once the administrivia is done, it’s time to head back to the caves for some more monster bashing. Here you will learn some rudimentary mapping skills, and fight some more monsters: rats, goblins, skeletons, and a rust monster. Coocoo died a couple of times attempting this, but he got there in the end. It helped once Alpha got into the mindset of being a savage fighter and just started killing everything at first sight (so they couldn’t call reinforcements).

In the caves you will also discover some hidden clues, an  assortment of treasures, a magical riddling mouth in a wall that can double the treasure you are holding, or take it all away. On the final attempt at this dungeon, Alpha held off on visiting the mouth until the end when she had collected all the other treasure.  That’s thinking!

By the end of the adventure Alphas character had reached level 2! Huzzah!

Once you finish up in the caves, you head back to town, where you can go shopping to replace any of the items you used (oil for your lamp, weapons and armour eaten by the rust monster etc.), and maybe treat yourself to a few extra bits and pieces for your next adventure using your newly bulging treasure sack.

Once this solo adventure is complete, it’s time to read the rest of the players manual which explains races and classes, prime requisites, alignment, adjustments and saving throws and everything else a player might need. It talks you through how to roll up a new character and how playing with a group differs from the solo adventure you just completed.

Overall, this was very entertaining.  I am already getting hassled about when we can continue the adventure, but at this stage I still need to get a few other players up to speed. There is a further adventure in the DM’s guide, but it requires multiple players.  I suppose I could just run BSOLO (one player module) or M1 SOLO (old invisible ink module) with her in the mean time.  The invisible ink is no longer functional, but you can find the hidden text online (or if that link goes down, here).

One of the issues that came up is that there was a lot of scribbling out of Hit Points.  To stop us having to do that, I threw together a simple 0-99 counter (pictuerd below).  This is made of 200 gsm cardboard (thicker would be better, but my printer won’t go much thicker than that).  After printing, I put clear “ConTact” over the whole thing before cutting it out, and attaching the wheels with some small brads.  For anyone who wants to make these themselves, I am putting the 1-page template for download as a png file here.

DSCN2507

 

 

See you next month, nerdy folk.

GFC D&D – Getting kids into Dungeons & Dragons cheap Part 4 – Solo Adventure

Wow – time has flown, between my work and school holidays I have completely missed a month. Well, you get what you pay for.

This time I have got Alpha (Girl, 9 yrs) to do the introductory Solo adventure that comes as a tutorial in the Basic D&D (Mentzer, 1983) Players Manual.  This is a great idea as it mixes the “doing” in with the “reading”, breaking the monotony of trying to remember a bunch of rules all at once.

The Adventure is split into 2 parts. The first, introductory part introduces new concepts (such as your character sheet, hit-points, saving throws, character classes and alignment etc.) one-by-one as the adventurer requires them. You are led through a basic cave crawl where you fight a goblin (with a very stripped down version of combat), meet a good cleric and an evil mage (curse you Bargle!). There are 2 possible endings for this part of the adventure, depending on a saving throw against Bargles magic.

After completing the first part, you are given some deeper background on alignment,adjustments, the character sheet, combat, money and treasure, saving throw, special abilities. This lasts for four pages, before you are launched into the second (and main) solo adventure.

This adventure starts in town at the smithy, then takes you through more battle information before leading you back to into the caves.  At this point it becomes a “choose your own adventure” style game.  Here as an example is the first block of text:

1    The room you are in is fifty feet square, with 10’ wide exits in the middle of the north, south, east, and west walls. The ceiling of the room is 15’ up, but the corridors are only 10’ tall. The walls, floor, and ceiling are made of rough rock. There are some cracks and crevices in the rock walls, all very small. Standing in the exact center of the room is a stone statue of a woman in armor. You examine it carefully, and finally even touch it – but it is merely a statue, nothing magical or special.
You have entered this 50’ square room by the southern corridor, which leads out to fresh air and sunlight. The other corridors are dark. The light from your lamp helps, but shadows linger in the corners of this large room. Do you want to:
Stop and Listen?   Read 42
Search the room?   Read 57
Go down a corridor?   Read 58

From here you just need to choose options and read the related text through to the completion of the adventure.

So How did Alpha cope?  Great.  At the end of the first adventure she was keen to continue on, but I needed to leave it for another day, and another post. And I still have to get Beta and/or some of the neighbourhood kids up to speed…

GFC D&D – Getting kids into Dungeons & Dragons cheap Part 3 – Which Rules

Dungeons and Dragons comes in more flavours than Baskin-Robbins. Original,  Basic/Expert, BECMI, Rules Cyclopedia, Advanced 1st, 1.5th, 2nd, 2.5th which was followed by Dungeons & Dragons (with no ‘Advanced’) 3rd, 3.5th and 4th editions. Then there’s the clones, like OSRIC, Labyrinth Lord, and so on. And following the religious schism between the 3.5th and 4th edition Pathfinder (sometimes jokingly referred to as 3.75th edition) came into being, and begat the ultra-sexy looking Pathfinder Beginner Box. Where on earth do you start?

With younger kids you are going to want to start with simple rules. The point of these articles is also to keep it as cheap as possible, without resorting to moral dodgyness and illegality. Oh hell, does that make me Lawful Good? Dammit – that’s annoying 🙁

For me, the conclusion I came to was to go with BECMI because I had books, and even though that makes it seem like a no-brainer, the decision was still excruciating. For the uninitiated, BECMI is the 1983 revision of the basic rules by the Madonna of Role-playing Frank Mentzer. It stands for Basic, Expert, Companion, Master and Immortal.  Each of these “levels” has a players handbook and a dungeon masters guide (sometimes separate, sometimes in a single book). The “Basic” set (set 1) covers player levels 1 to 3. Expert covers levels up to 14. Companion covers levels up to 25 and so on. I don’t expect to ever get the kids beyond that, as we will probably move on to Pathfinder or AD&D at that point. The Basic books contain a minimal set of rules, with more being introduced s the players move up the levels.

BECMI is a gentle introduction to the D&D world. it comes with separaThen there’s the clones, like OSRIC, Labyrinth Lord, and so on. And following the religious schism between th3 3.5th and 4th edition Pathfinder came into being, and begat the ultra-sexy lookte Player and DM guidebooks. New players are guided through a “solo” adventure which walks them through core concepts (hit points, combat, saving throws, character classes etc.) one at a time.

If you don’t have BECMI books at hand (and you can’t find a reasonably prices second hand set at AbeBooks or Amazon) then head over to DnD Classics and pick up the 1981 Basic set (aka Moldvay) for $5.00.  This version of Basic D&D came with the player and DM guides in one book. This is a legitimate copy, and will be watermarked with your name at the time of download. The text of the PDF file is searchable, and you can print out the entire manual if that’s what you’re into. Super bargain! While you are there you can also pick up any or all of the old Basic modules (numbered B1 to B12) for $5 each (or $50 for the dozen). For complete beginners, I would suggest one the following introductory modules:

NOTE: I do not get any money or other benefits from any of the links in any of the posts in this series including the above.  I am dong this out of nerd altruism, not some fantasy of profiting from it.

My alternate choice would be the Pathfinder Beginner Box, which you can get delivered world-wide from The Book Depository for around AU$35. Pathfinder is what D&D 4th Edition might have been in an alternate universe.  If you are willing to forgo all the fiddly fun of printing, cutting, and planning it would be well worthwhile paying for this and getting everything you need in one box – dice,  play-mat maps, rule books, character sheets (both blank and pre-generated), card stock miniatures (with stands), and a starter adventure – the only thing you need to provide is a pencil, and your imagination. The publisher (Paizo) web site also has free downloadable additions to the Box to help you continue the fun and transition to the full game. I confess I bought one of these, for when the kids get a little older and/or more RPG savvy. I think it might be a touch beyond Beta (6 years old) at this stage, and I like the cutting and pasting busy work of making, maps and miniatures. I’m weird like that.
EDIT (2nd May 2014): Book Depository prices have been a bit volatile lately. You can get a comparison of retail prices for the beginner box by clicking here.

It is also worth noting that there are a multitude of non-D&D role-playing games aimed at kids as well such as Hero Kids, rpgKids, Fuzzy Heroes, Super Heroes Unite!, Buggin’, Meddling Kids, GURPS Lite etc.  You can find a nice round-ups of kids RPGs at tlucretius.net, DriveThruRPG, and the Young Person’s Adventure League.

See you next month, and as always feel free to register and leave a comment (your details are will not be loaned, sold or given away for free – such an action would bring disgrace on my ancestors and I would be forced to commit Seppuku).

GFC D&D – Getting kids into Dungeons & Dragons cheap Part 2 – Dice Tower

Rolling dice – nothing could be simpler right? That’s what I thought until I had children. Alpha (Girl, 8) tries to cheat if she thinks no-one is looking by turning the dice to a more favourable value after rolling it, or just pretending to roll it and announcing she got a critical hit. Beta (Boy, 6) seems to think the dice are ninja throwing stars, and causes damage to anything on the table, the other players, the dog, the walls, the roof, neighbours, passing traffic, low flying aircraft etc. We are often required to crawl around on the floor looking for wayward d20s. Some days I feel we are LARPing rather than playing on the tabletop.

A “dice tower” can fix this, with the added bonus of making the rolling more fun.  Drop the dice in the top of the tower, and they jiggle their way to the bottom where they pop out neatly into a tray, properly randomised.

Since I’m doing this whole cheapy thing, I decided to make my own dice tower. I used stuff from the collection of household items we keep for kiddie-craft purposes:

  • 2 hard plastic tubes (which originally held Aldi effervescent vitamin B tablets)
  • the lid off a 6-egg carton,
  • some cardboard tubes (from rolls of kitchen paper towels)to act as scaffolding, and
  • some duct or gaffers tape.

The hard plastic tubes were just the right size for 16mm dice to fit through without snagging. I sawed (well, serrated kitchen knifed) the bases off the bottom at an angle, so I could join these together at approximately a right angle.

Then holes were cut in the cardboard tubes to hold the hard plastic tubes in a < shape, a few centimetres off the ground. Duct tape was applied liberally to reinforce the structure.

Finally the egg carton lid was fastened underneath the exit hole to catch the dice as they rolled out of the tube..

The upside – it works like a champion, reducing (though not entirely eliminating) both the cheating and wild throws to a minimum. It also makes it easier for the kids to share a singe set of dice.

The downside – it looks like some sort of weird drug paraphernalia. The first time my children see a bong, they are going to wonder where the dice come out.

My second choice for a self-made dice tower would have been to use a milk carton with a few angled cuts in it to hold some shelves to emulate a commercial dice-tower, but since my first attempt worked so well there is no need to pursue this. If you do, let me know how it works!

I love yous all, but thanks to spambots and other scum sucking villains you will have to register to leave a comment.  Sorry.

CYA next time.

GFC D&D – Getting kids into Dungeons & Dragons on the cheap Part I – Heroes of Hesiod.

Children are expensive. They are also obnoxious, frequently dirty, smelly and time consuming, but that’s a whole other series of blog posts.  An article about one couple not spending any money on their kids for a year got me wondering how I could introduce my children to D&D for free – or at least on a tiny budget. Surprisingly there is actually a lot of alternatives to coughing up the big bucks for rule books, miniatures, modules and maps. Using the resources in this series of articles you should be able to get up and running for less than $20.

Background: I have two children: An 8 year old girl (I’ll call her Alpha) and a 6 year old boy (Beta – although Beater might be more appropriate). I had some experience of D&D from the BASIC/EXPERT/1st Edition AD&D days, but had never been a DM.  Before forking out a lot of cash, I wanted a quick, easy, free way to introduce them to the D&D multiverse. If they showed any interest we could build up to something bigger.

Thankfully Wizards of the Coast (who apparently bought TSR during that 25 years I wasn’t looking) have a free adventure called Heroes of Hesiod which comes in the form of a downloadable PDF.  Print out the book, cut out the hero/monster cards and tokens (for use on the map) and grab some dice, preferably a normal six sided dice, and a twenty sided dice or d20.  If you don’t have a d20, the game makes allowances for you to use three six-sided dice instead.

The game itself only lasts about 30 minutes (although the first one may be a little longer until you get the hang of it).  It is designed for 5 or 6 players, and luckily we had a few of the neighbourhood kids hanging around when it was time to play.  If you have less players, it might be a good idea to leave one or two of the monsters out.

The game itself is an extremely simplified version of D&D. The “map” is a rectangular dungeon with a few obstacles (rocks and barrels) strewn around.  There are also four cages, each containing a monster, which the DM releases over the course of the game. If a player dies, the DM brings them back to life.  Once the monsters are all defeated each of the heroes receives a badge with their characters name on it (which is also included in the PDF).

Overall the kids had a good time with Heroes of Hesiod, although Beta’s attention started to wane by the end.

There is not a huge amount of replay value, but it is relatively trivial to come up with some new monsters and/or heroes to mix things up a bit (there’s not a whole bunch of stats to roll up). I made up a few extra adventurers and monsters, and a fancier map using some of the free resources over at Drive Thru RPG.

I already had a set of polyhedral dice, but for those of you don’t you could invest in some standard D&D sets of 7 dice (D4, D6, D8, D10, D10 (tens), D12 and D20.  These can be purchased all over the internet.  Here is a few dealers worth trying:

  • WarPuppy – Only ships within Australia. Nice Ch://www.wizards.com/dnd/dice/dice.htmessex brand sets starting from AU$8.50 + about AU$7 postage. I’ve always had great service from them.
  • EM4Miniatures – UK Based, but has reasonable overseas shipping rates.  TWO sets of 7 poly-dice including shipping cost me about AU$16.50 in total. Also sells stands for paper miniatures that I will be discussing in a later instalment. I’ve also had surprisingly prompt service from these guys.
  • Milsims GamesHave quite a range starting at AU$4.50 including the beautiful but expensive Q Workshops dice. Shipping is AU$7.50
  • Or, you could just find your local games store (if you are lucky enough to have one). Damned if I can find anyone selling this stuff around me.

(Note: Prices above were as of 7th Feb 2013)

If you don’t want to purchase dice, there are also free dungeon master programs (or web sites) to roll dice on your computer or smart phone. Below is a one line Perl program to roll a 20 sided dice. This will work out of the box on Linux systems (you like D&D, so you must be using Linux, right?). If your using some inferior operating system you might need to install the Free community edition of ActivePerl first.

   perl -e 'print int(rand(20)+1)."\n"'

Change the number 20 to the number of sided dice you want to roll.  Now that’s cheap!

Well, that’s all for this time!. If you have any feedback or comments, feel free to create an account, and I will do my best to reply.  Note: You have my solemn promise never to sell or otherwise disclose your email address or other details to spammers or anyone else short of being presented with a warrant from a law enforcement agency. If I break this vow, may every player character in every adventure henceforth have a true neutral alignment:-(

Cheerio until next month!

Ceylon-tech.com IS a scam

I thought the delluge of tech support scam phone calls was over.  I guess I was a little optimistic.  I just had a hilarious call from a scammer who tried tried to tell me my Linux computer was sending out Windows error messages. He wanted to connect remotely and fix the problems for me. The guy didn’t seem to understand “Linux”, and asked me to click on my “start menu”.  Hahahaha.

When confronted with the fact that he was a scamming scum-bag, the caller tried to prove that they were legitimate by giving me their web-site address: www.ceylon-tech.com (no link – please don’t go there unless you know what you are doing i.e. disable scripting/Java/Flash etc.) and an Australian free-call number. The scammer told me they had been doing legitimate technical support for years, but the domain was only registered in July 2012.  A quick google finds a number of people who have been burned by these arseholes.  It’s probably worth pointing out that Ceylon has not existed since 1972.

I spent quite a while asking this scammer how he got my number, to which he could only respond with some vague bullshit about “your number was in the error message sent by your computer”.  I took much delight in pointing out that I am on the Do Not Call register and they were, therefore, in violation of The Do Not Call Register Act 2006.

Anyway,  I had a great time, and my wife giggling in the background probably tipped him off, but to his credit he refused to hang up for a very long time, regardless of the increasingly acerbic recriminations levelled at him.  He took great care to apologise and said they would never call me again.  Right.  I have of course reported this call to the ACCC and given the ceylon-tec web site the worst possible rating on Web Of Trust.

Listing Linux TZ Environment Variable

Time zones can be confusing. If you want to see a list of time-zones you can use in the Perl $ENV{TZ} = ‘xxxx’ you can have a look at the Timezone files in /usr/share/zoneinfo

Here is a quick way to see the available timezones in Europe:

tail -n 1 /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/* | sed -r 's/,.+//'

This returns a bunch of stuff like this:

==> /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/Gibraltar < ==
CET-1CEST
==> /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/Guernsey < ==
GMT0BST
==> /usr/share/zoneinfo/Europe/Helsinki < ==
EET-2EEST

The line starting with ==> is the name of the file, and the following line the TZ code.

You can change ‘Europe’ to America, Australia, Africa etc. Have a look in /usr/share/zoneinfo to see all the available folders.

Why’s my ‘nano’ editor in black and white in Fedora?

If you do any source code tweaking in nano you will no that colourising (or ‘colorizing’ for our American cousins) the code makes life simpler. For some reason the default Fedora config for nano, since approxiamtely the dawn of time, is to disable automatic code highlighting.

Fortunately it is easy to fix this by modifying the /etc/nanorc file. Just edit the file using nano:
su -c 'nano /etc/nanorc'
skip down to the bottom of the file and you will see a whole series options like this:

    ## Perl
    # include "/usr/share/nano/perl.nanorc"

    ## Python
    # include "/usr/share/nano/python.nanorc"

    ## Ruby
    # include "/usr/share/nano/ruby.nanorc"

    ## Java
    # include "/usr/share/nano/java.nanorc"

Just remove the octothorpe (a.k.a. hash) from the from the beginning of the line for all types of files you want colourised. e.g. to enable colourising Perl code, you would change the Perl line to this:

    ## Perl
    include "/usr/share/nano/perl.nanorc"

Next time you open a Perl script it will be colourised.